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Is Makeup For Men The Next Big Beauty Trend?



I’m looking at the man in the mirror. And he looks great, to be honest. It’s how I feel I should look when I am at my most optimistic. There’s a smooth sheen across my cheeks. My eyes are bright, my brows orderly.

And the reason I look so good? Because a makeup artist has spent 40 minutes on my face. First, she dowsed it with Hollywood Flawless Filter by Charlotte Tilbury. Later, I look it up: it says it’s “a customizable complexion booster” with “the versatility of a primer” and “the mega-watt glow of a highlighter”. I would say it’s more like a glossy Polyfilla, miraculously leveling my chipboard skin. Next, she added blobs of what looks like green toothpaste across my cheeks. I am briefly horrified; does she want me to look like Grotbags? But it gets rid of all my blotchy redness. Who knew?

Women know, obviously. For the last century, makeup has been mostly the preserve of just half the population. Even as society has become more feminist, and less ruled by gender binaries, women’s cosmetics use has become even more prolific, while men have continued to go au naturel, occasionally boshing on a bit of moisturizer and hoping for the best.

But that may be changing, as brands from Chanel to Tom Ford launch male cosmetics lines, which is why I’ve asked for a makeover. My “before” photos leave no doubt as to where the disaster zones are. I’m youngish, but the skin under my beard is parched, there are red blotches across my face equator, my squinty eyes are sunken and there’s lots of white flakiness in the deep valleys between the shaft of my nose and the foothills of my nostrils.


My new “natural” look involves about 11 different products. The first round of five or so I recognise: toners, moisturisers, a calming face mist. Nothing girly about that, I think. This is just skincare; my bathroom cabinet is full of this nonsense. Then comes the foundation, filter, powder, two different kinds of colour correction, concealer, eyebrow brush and lip gloss.

Left: Sam’s normal ‘before’ look; right, his new ‘natural’ look.

Sam Cooper, who has prepped stars from Tony Hadley to Jon Hamm for photoshoots and big nights out, seems trustworthy, but surely all of this is going to make me look like Gemma Collins. I am wrong. When Cooper is finished, I look properly in the mirror, and like what I see. I feel like a child who has just discovered how the magician does his tricks.

For an increasing number of men, makeup is becoming the norm. If you watch Love Island or Geordie Shore (even Richard Madden in the BBC’s Bodyguard wore a full face). Tom Ford launched a men’s concealer and brow gel comb last year; Chanel now has a tinted foundation, a matte lip balm and four shades of eyebrow pencil under its new Boy De Chanel brand. Male cosmetics still make up less than 1% of the $465bn global beauty market, although 15% of UK men under 45 bought makeup in 2016 (the figures don’t say whether this was for personal use).

As with the boom in female beauty, the charge is being led by ordinary teenagers making videos in their bedrooms. James Charles from upstate New York was 16 when he launched his first makeup tutorial on YouTube. In it, he demonstrates how to do a complex contoured look with a deep blue eye-shadow glow, completely transforming his face. By the age of 18, Charles had amassed 8.5 million subscribers and become the first man to model for makeup brand CoverGirl.

In the UK, the most famous male beauty vlogger is Gary Thompson, who has had campaigns with L’Oréal and Superdrug. His Instagram handle is @theplasticboy, and there is a certain Ken doll sheen to his contoured cheeks. He started wearing makeup because of bad skin, but now loves the way it makes him feel. He says things have changed a lot in the time he’s been wearing makeup. “I remember walking down the street in a full beat [full makeup look] and getting dirty looks, but now no one blinks an eye.”

Both Thompson and Charles are model-like, and their makeup looks are full-on and feminine: lots of contouring, bronzer and colour. Both are gay; queer culture has always appropriated elements of femininity, particularly makeup. As Thompson says, “Makeup connects with queer culture – it’s such a powerful form of expression.”

Gary Thompson, the UK’s most famous male beauty vlogger.

The question, though, is whether the Towie boys and the high-profile vloggers doing deals with mainstream beauty brands could signal a tipping point where male makeup becomes more commercially viable. I have my reservations, not least because we’ve been here before. In the kohl-and-cocaine mid-00s, front pages were dominated by the fabulous lashes of Pete DohertyNoel Fielding and Russell Brand. Piggybacking on that trend, Superdrug tried to launch a “guyliner” and “manscara” in 2008. Both products flopped.

Bunny Kinney, editor of Dazed Beauty magazine, tells me he’s starting to hear major brands talk about male makeup, but that there’s a long way to go before blokes in towns across Britain start powdering their noses before a night out. “In spite of all the amazing, radical progress that’s being made with regards to gender nonconformity, beauty still very much exists on that mainstream binary. For things like male foundation, getting rid of that stigma is going to be hard.”

Back in the makeup chair, I ask Cooper to give me a slightly more full-on look: eye shadow, contouring, glow on my cheekbones (pictured above). How do I look? Yes, my eyes are “popping”, but it’s extremely noticeable and I feel uncomfortable. I keep the makeup on, and later bump into some friends. “You’re wearing makeup,” they say by way of a hello. I don’t know the unspoken rule that you don’t touch your face when wearing makeup; by the time I meet my girlfriend an hour later, everything has smeared. What do you think, I ask? She looks at me with undisguised amusement – a vain melting goth in the middle of St Pancras station. “I’m surprised by how unashamed you are,” she says.

One brand believes it can beat the kneejerk unease men have about makeup. It’s called MMUK. On sale exclusively through Asos, it has grown to become the biggest male-focused makeup brand in Europe, with a turnover last year of £1m.

MMUK is based in Brighton, where I meet its founder, Alex Dalley. After watching plenty of beauty vlogs, I have certain preconceptions, so I am surprised to be greeted by a man in a plain white T-shirt and black exercise shorts that expose his tree-trunk, rugby-player legs. He calls me “fella”.

Dalley says his interest in makeup started when he was a teenager: he is blind in one eye and had terrible acne, and would regularly miss school because he didn’t want anyone to see his visible disability. “I’m surprised I ever left my bedroom,” he says.

Alex Dalley started wearing makeup in his teens; he’s now launched his own beauty range

On the night of the lower-sixth prom, his mother convinced him to try foundation. The result was life-changing. “I remember looking in the mirror and feeling like myself again,” Dalley says. It kickstarted a fascination with bronzers and concealers, although he remained too frightened to buy anything himself, sending his mum off to Boots to shop for him.

While studying business at Sussex University, he did some market research and was surprised to find there weren’t any male beauty brands. He began developing a business plan, and when he left university, tried to make it a reality, setting up a website and using his overdraft to buy up cheap, discontinued Calvin Klein women’s makeup, which he then marketed at men.

Straight away, Dalley was making more than £1,000 a month by convincing men they were buying male makeup when they weren’t. He included tutorials and guides, showing men the basics of foundation, powder and concealer (his site was also the first that came up if you Googled “makeup for men”). Eventually, he ran out of the Calvin Klein stock, so he started investing in his own products. Dalley initially assumed the primary interest would be from gay men, and took out adverts in Attitude and Gay Times. But he quickly found that gay consumers made up only a quarter of his customer base.

“We thought gay men would find less of a stigma around it, because they are more open,” he says. “But a lot of the men who were getting in contact were straight. There were in their 40s struggling with wrinkles, worried about younger people coming through at work, wanting to show their bosses they still had energy. There were also men in their 30s, worried about dark circles. Then men in their 20s, who subscribe to that gym-health–Towie lifestyle, where using products is the norm. And then a huge number of teenagers trying to deal with acne, maybe 40% of our customers.”

MMUK changed the tone of the language on the website, and took out references to nights out and “wingmen” to make it appealing to all age groups, and watched the business grow. In 2017, it got a distribution deal with Asos; Dalley now plans to expand into 12 new territories next year.

He says the success of the products is down to their formulations, which are different from women’s brands. They need to last longer, because there’s no way men will keep makeup in their bag or touch up in the bathroom (many of MMUK’s customers request the makeup to be delivered in plain packaging or addressed to a female name). Most importantly, each product is essentially designed to be invisible. The foundations are matte and come in a wide range of skin tones and types. The lip glosses are clear; the bronzers aim to make you look tanned, rather than to glow.’

I wonder how Dalley feels about the market expanding, with bigger brands muscling in on his turf. “I think Chanel, Tom Ford – they’re tokens. It’s all just marketing. They’ve just added the word ‘boy’ or ‘for men’. They haven’t had the balls to say, ‘Let’s really step away and create a whole range.’”

Thompson, who vlogs mostly about using women’s makeup to achieve his looks, agrees, adding that, just as female ranges have for decades given women of colour few options, these nascent ranges for men don’t cater for darker skin types. “With Chanel, it’s amazing that they are doing a men’s makeup range, but those shades? Why even bother if you don’t cater to all the men around the world?”

I’m interested by Dalley’s offering. Until now, my skincare routine has involved picking up free samples at airports. So, heading off to a night out at a Frieze art fair afterparty, I pick up a bag of MMUK’s makeup. Already I see a problem: I need somewhere to apply it. I try a few bars, but the men’s toilets are busy and I don’t feel comfortable standing by the sink applying foundation while men in suits urinate behind me. Eventually, I settle for a toilet cubicle in a train station pub and try my best with the mirror in the compact.

Having watched Cooper, I feel as if I know what I’m doing, but I quickly phone my girlfriend to make sure I’ve got the order right (I haven’t). I start with the foundation, which looks good until I get some on my beard, creating a horrible tartare-sauce look that is difficult to get off. After that, it’s concealer and powder and I try to fix my eyebrows, too.

At the party, I meet up with some of my oldest friends. I expect them to bring it up immediately, but no one does; when I mention that I’m wearing makeup, they say my skin looks glowing. Still, it doesn’t really make me feel more confident; I worry that I’m coming across too Towie at a party that’s much more Broad City.

In the longer term, I worry that, for now, makeup is still viewed as too effeminate, too fundamentally unnatural for most men to be proud daily users. An Ipsos poll last year found that 84% of women said their beauty routine could be “empowering”. Makeup for men feels the opposite, like admitting defeat because your natural look isn’t good enough. I wonder how it will fare if its main selling point is that it can be applied in total secrecy.

One man who wants bring makeup out of the shadows is Jay Jay Revlon. After completing a nail technician course earlier this year, he set up the only male nail salon in the UK, as a popup in the corner of a pub. The technicians were men, and people could order a pint while they had their nails looked at.

Like MMUK, Revlon found that he was getting a range of customers. “Nail biters were my key clientele,” he says. He’d give gel extensions for a natural look, as well as offering black or glitter nails; the salon also gave manicures to those who just “want their hands sorting out”.

Revlon says the long-term aim is a permanent space, “where men come and get their nails done, but can also do other stuff. It can be a social space, a safe space for LGBT people.” His dream is to have a salon where men can go to get their makeup sorted.

There is a brand of socially conditioned masculinity that might stop me having a cupboard full of products, or powdering my nose in the loos of a commuter-friendly Wetherspoons. But would I pop to a male makeup bar and get my face done before a big night out? I already go to the barbers, where my eyebrows are plucked, my hands massaged and my beard trimmed to the millimetre. If they chucked in a little foundation and some colour corrector for the weekend – well, I wouldn’t say no.

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iPhone 11 Rumors: 4,000mAh Battery, 120Hz Display, Faster Wireless Charging, More



iPhone 11

This site is mirroring this Twitter user’s iPhone 11 wish list, rather than providing any new information. The items mentioned should be disregarded. Original story below.

Sketchy new reports from Chinese website Weibo claim to offer up some interesting new tidbits regarding Apple’s upcoming iPhone 11. Most interesting is the possibility of a display with a higher refresh rate, similar to the 120Hz rate found on iPad Pro.

The report also calls for a larger, 4,000mAh battery on the Max model, with much faster 15W wireless charging also in tow.

When iPhone 8 and iPhone X launched with Qi wireless charging support, Apple initially only offered 5W as the maximum speed. Through a later iOS update and a capable Qi accessory, 7.5W charging was eventually possible.

However, if these sketchy rumors prove true, iPhone wireless charging rates will be the fastest on the market, surpassing the best offerings from Android. The possibility even remains of Apple repeating the cycle and boosting the max offering above 15W through a future iOS update.

As for the improved display refresh rate, the rumor specifies between “90-120Hz” rather than a surefire 120Hz, indicating Apple might have found a ‘sweet spot’ of sorts between improved refresh rates and battery life.

The rumor further corroborates reports of a triple camera setup on the back. This could mean Apple will house a wide angle, super-wide angle, and a 3X telephoto lens. The last mark is interesting, as Apple’s current telephoto lens defaults to a 2X zoom.

Previous iPhone 11 rumors have called for a smaller notch, an improved 10MP selfie camera, and of course, a widely improved 14MP triple camera rear setup. As for whether USB-C will finally make its way to iPhone or Lightning will last another year remains to be seen, however.

These claims should be treated with a healthy dose of skepticism, like most iPhone rumors this early in the year. Nevertheless, the claims offer some conversational topics for the 2019 iPhones. What do you think we’ll see come September?

Let us know in the comments down below!

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Hand-On With Nike’s Self-Lacing, App Controlled Sneaker Of The Future




I flew across the country to Portland to experience the Adapt BB, Nike’s new self-lacing, Bluetooth-enabled sneakers, but the guy showing me around campus is wearing a pair of Zoom Flys that refuse to stay tied. Within 10 minutes of tying them, they’re untied again, flailing all over. I hate when people point out my untied shoes, but his feel intentional. Of course I notice the laces. Of course I point them out. He laughs and swears he’s not doing this on purpose, that Nike hasn’t deliberately set up my visit with a scene out of an infomercial fail.

The Adapt BB — the BB stands for “basketball” — build on Nike’s decades-long dream to create an auto-lacing smart shoe that adapts to wearers’ feet. The company wants to fundamentally change footwear and, of course, sell more shoes.

Imagine: your feet swell during a basketball game because you’ve been running back and forth on the court, and your sneakers detect your blood pressure. Instead of reaching down and untying your laces, the shoes loosen automatically. Never again will you have to fuss around with your laces because, guess what, your shoes already know what you want to do.

“That is the broader vision, or the biggest dream, that the product becomes so synergistic to your body. It just knows almost kind of what you’re thinking,” says Eric Avar, VP & creative director at Nike Innovation. “It’s a natural extension of your body.”

This imaginary, all-knowing shoe doesn’t exist yet. Instead, the Adapt BB represent the next step in that dream product journey. This is the shoe that’ll make self-lacing technology available to more people and get them used to the idea of an app-controlled shoe.

The Adapt BB are a pair of sneakers, sure, but they’re connected tech, too, which means that if Nike pulls off its goal of making a popular, smart footwear line, we’re going to have to care for our shoes differently than we ever have before. We’ll charge them wirelessly, update their companion phone apps, and replace their batteries like we’re starting to do with our iPhones. That’s a lot to ask of people, and that’s not even everything Nike needs to accomplish. Beyond fundamentally changing how we think about shoes, the company has to confront new responsibilities and challenges, like e-waste and tech degradation. The Adapt BB are a big bet for Nike, but the company seems confident that customers will get on board with whatever they sell. (Well, unless they prefer Adidas.)

I’m promised the shoes will move me. Nike says wearing them will be like trying a TV remote for the first time. I’ve grown up with remotes my whole life.

“I’m old enough to remember when you had to get off the couch to change the channel, like it’s that level of wow,” says Dustin Tolliver, senior product director in basketball footwear.

Adapt BB’s predecessor, the HyperAdapt 1.0, debuted in 2016 as a limited run for $720. That first go-around was bulkier, uglier. That same year, Nike sold 89 pairs of high-top adaptive fit Mags, just like the ones in Back to the Future Part II. These sneakers were more of a novelty, and they were certainly not built for a large consumer market. The Adapt BB are something completely new. They forgo anything that resembles a lace, and they ship with Bluetooth connectivity so wearers can tighten and loosen their shoes from their phone. They can even choose the color the sneakers emit when in tightening mode. Adapt BB will debut on the NBA court on both Jayson Tatum when he plays against the Raptors and on Luka Dončić when he plays against the Spurs. Both games are on January 16th.

The shoes will be available for preorder today, and they will officially go on sale on February 17th at Nike stores, online, and through the SNKRS app for $350.

Nike has built connected footwear before — remember the Nike+iPod and the Nike+ Training? — but the company is serious about making adaptive fit a thing. A mysterious but seemingly thoroughly built-out product road map is mentioned to me multiple times throughout my visit. I get the impression that Nike wants adaptive fit technology to be a data-fueled platform with a storied product lineage. Just like we look to the original iPhone to see how far we’ve come with smartphones, we’ll look at the original adaptive shoes and marvel at the fact that we ever used laces.

These new shoes are “smart,” but not in the most obvious sense. Right now, they don’t even track steps or activity levels. They just tighten and loosen at the tap of an app, or whenever someone sticks their feet inside them.


“What we wanted to do was solve something that we knew consumers wanted first as a problem because we look at things like step counting and activity tracking as easy things to add around that, but it’s not necessarily the reason you would go out and buy the shoe,” says Jordan Rice, senior director in Smart Systems Engineering at Nike.

He’s probably right. Sure, it’d be nice if I could wear and charge one less thing, but people like their Apple Watches and Fitbits. They don’t need tracking in a shoe immediately. While the Adapt BB look notably different than the HyperAdapt 1.0, the bigger innovation has to do with what Nike calls the “lace engine.” Every component needed to make the shoe smart lives inside that engine: a microcontroller, 505mAh battery, gyroscope, accelerometer, Bluetooth module, motor, lights, pressure sensor, capacitive touch sensor, temperature sensor, and wireless charging coil. All of the tech that you find in a smartphone is packed inside this shoe; Nike could easily update the app to start counting steps or tracking fitness.

The app walks wearers through the pairing process, which involves holding each shoe close to their phone. That process failed a couple of times during my demo. The sneakers each have a battery inside that Rice says should last 10 to 14 days on a single charge, and they’ll always save enough juice to loosen, meaning your feet will never be trapped. The shoes charge wirelessly on a new mat that Rice says is “Qi-like,” but not Qi. There’s a coil in each shoe, and to charge, the shoes have to be placed on a specific zone on the mat, which has a USB-C port. Mats won’t initially be sold individually and will instead ship with the shoes. Each pair comes with a mat, USB-C cable, and wall plug.

Yes, Adapt BB wearers will be walking around, generating heat, and jumping on top of lithium-ion batteries, which might make anyone familiar with 2016’s Samsung Galaxy Note 7 situation nervous. Still, Nike says it put the shoes through “hours and hours” of testing to make sure they don’t crack under the weight of a six-foot-something, 200-pound basketball player. Rice says that testing involved two parts: a real-world, on-athletes portion, and a lab test that included thousands of impact and impulse cycles. The impulse test attempted to seep water into the lace engine, which is sealed shut. The shoes are waterproof, so they’re safe to wear outside on a rainy day, or in “any moisture environment” that someone might encounter (although I have my doubts about the New York City subways after a rainstorm). The real-world test involved a variety of athletes, including “NCAA athletes, semi-pro athletes, athletes that play professionally overseas and come home for the summer, and regular athletes” wearing and playing in the shoes for hours.

The tightening technology relies on a single cable loop that’s threaded through the motor, which acts as a spool. When the shoe tightens, the cable winds around the motor. Wearers can customize three presets in the app, ideally for warming up or gameplay. They can access those presets from the app, or hold down a button on the side of the shoe to go all the way from tight to loose. They can also make more precise adjustments from the app or by using those buttons. The shoe will remember the last tightness setting and default to that when being worn again.

I can’t overstate the importance of this lace engine; it’s a pivotal upgrade. The HyperAdapt 1.0 was a tangled, entwined mess that couldn’t have been easily mass-produced. With this modular component, however, Nike can pump out shoe husks, stick the lace engine inside, and create a fully connected shoe. That lace engine can go in any shoe that’s big enough to house it, regardless of the design of the shoe. It’s critical to making the Adapt BB widely available and easily repairable.

But right now, it’s not perfect. The shoes are supposed to tighten once your feet are fully inside, but they triggered at the wrong times whenever I wore them. Presumably, this will improve over time as Nike gets data from wearers.

As far as fit, imagine a toy claw machine, but the claw is flipped upside down and inside your shoe, closing in on you. That’s the sensation I felt when the shoe tightened — almost like a robot was hugging me. Compared to the Jordans I wore during my Nike campus visit, though, they were comfortable and tight enough. I can’t imagine ever adjusting them on a normal day, but once you get used to tight shoes, it’s a bummer to go back to your loose-fitting ones. It is kind of a bummer to have to tie them, too.

That said, the Adapt BB are hard to slip into, which The Verge’s video producer Vjeran Pavic discovered when he couldn’t fit into them at all. He has wide feet. I have smaller feet, or at least they’re average for women, and I still had a hard time getting into them. The latch on top is critical for pulling them up, but I really had to yank them. When it comes to sizes, Nike let me try on the only pair of women’s sevens they have, an original prototype in a colorway that doesn’t commercially exist. The shoes will only be released in men’s sizing, in sizes seven to 15, and half sizes will be available up to size 14, too. That means the smallest size is a women’s 8.5. The WNBA tells me that the smallest women’s size in the league is a men’s 6.5, so not even every professional basketball player can wear these. Nike suggested it’ll bring this technology to smaller sizes in the future, but I’m disappointed they haven’t at first.

Now, Nike knows how to build shoes, but creating a gadget requires new processes. The shoes might last a long time sitting on a shelf, but the battery inside them could degrade. (Rice is confident that the shoes will wear out before the tech, but my old Zune that’s been sitting in a drawer for 10 years doesn’t turn on anymore, simply because I stopped using it and the battery degraded.) The same could happen for these shoes if collectors keep them on a shelf. That’s a long-term problem, though, and Rice says the modular component is specifically designed to be swappable. If someone needs a repair, or if a motor dies, users can ship the shoes back to Nike, and the team can pull that lace engine out and insert a new one.

“We have to sort of crawl and then walk and then run,” says Tinker Hatfield, VP of creative concepts. “We’re past crawling. We’re walking, so to speak. So the next phase for us will be to proliferate this technology.”

It’s been two months since I visited the Nike campus, and I can still hear the distinctive sound of the Adapt BB. Strangely, it reminds me of a more harmonic version of what you hear when a Keurig brews a cup of coffee and then tosses the pod into its trash. Rice says the sound, which is an E flat Major, was a long discussion that included one engineer making it play the tone of the aliens in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. It’s valuable product currency, and the company is trying to make it synonymous with Nike. Two chords are generated: the first and second chord of the E flat Major scale when the battery is above 20 percent, and an E flat C, or an octave lower, when it’s below 20 percent. The lace engine’s plastic shell amplifies the sound. It’s pretty loud, and there’s no way to make it quieter. The entire experience is sensual, with the shoe tightening at the same time as this note playing.

Rice admits some people might not dig it. “I know it’s polarizing, but a lot of people really like it. They really like the sound, and I think it’s resonated — no pun intended — with a lot of people.”

It’s still unclear if that will be true, if one of the world’s largest apparel makers can make us love charging our shoes or feel bonded with them as they tighten around us. But Nike still knows how to lean into its greatest strength: the brand.

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Apple AirPods 2 Will Be The Most Revolutionary Ear Accessories In History



Apple AirPods 2

Apple, known for such products as the iPhone X, iPhone XR, iPhone XS Max and its “wireless, effortless, magical” AirPods has allegedly started production its AirPower wireless charging pad.

Without too much speculative power, it shouldn’t take your brain long to assume that the release of the AirPower will be timed with the release of second generation AirPods.

Recently, while visiting San Francisco and watching all the mouth breathing scooter riders with AirPods in their ears careen into stationary objects while showing a clear lack of spatial awareness, I realized what a revolutionary product the AirPod really is.

Not only is it a wireless audio delivery device, but is also comes in white and only white. Will the AirPods 2 come in black or perhaps rose gold? Will they be red, pink blue or brown? Only Jony Ive really knows and chances are he’s chugging gallons of antacid in his boxer shorts surrounded by paint samples from Home Depot.

Forget all the products that have come before it, or all the wireless ear buds currently on the market (and there are a lot of them). Forget everything you know about music, audio and sticking things in your ears. It’s clear that the only reason Apple didn’t announce the AirPods 2 and the AirPower charging mat last year is because it is creating a device so revolutionary, so game-changing that it will literally choke-spit us into the 22nd century of audio technology. Our ear holes are not ready for the weight of what Apple is about to unleash upon our tender bony labyrinths.

Sure, we’ve heard Apple rumors of a foldable phone, or even a curved phone but those innovations will be nothing compared to the Apple AirPods 2. The AirPods 2 will probably double as meditation devices, sending calming pulses down your Buccal and Lingual nerves. They will surely be able to send brain scans to your Apple Watch, and into the cloud, to be sold to advertisers hawking speed pills.

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